DARK MOFO (semi) EXPLAINED
When I got the call up to head down to Hobart solo to catch some Dark Mofo shows, a part of me was a little nervous. It had been a while since I’d attended an event as a ‘punter’ (as we call it in the biz)... How could I possibly get through 48hrs without a task? No radio call to whisk me away when there's a conversation in lull, navigating big lines of people, getting through that dreaded front gate, and the even more dreaded portaloo.
But alas, I packed up my desk in Launceston at 4:58pm on Thursday, after a day deep in getting permits, updating spreadsheets and organising events I drove the 2.5ish hours to Hobart to attend a festival for myself. Dark Mofo, the annual Winter Celebration by Mona Museum and the elusive David Walsh. After taking a hiatus last year, the festival felt like it was back and ready to shock, wow and create a sprinkle of controversy to Tasmanians as well as the Mainlanders who had made the journey to the deep south.
The first show on the list was at the Odeon Theatre, an iconic 1000+ cap theater built in the centre of Hobart in 1916. Its architecture was inspired by the buildings of New York which was fitting considering the bands I would see there the next two nights call the Big Apple home.
First up was DIIV, a four piece that shifts between shoegaze, post punk, and glimmers of dream pop–although, it's hard to find the words that fully encompasses their sound. Their tireless guitar tech made many stage appearances, swapping between gear and constantly tuning pretty much song in and song out. If you’ve seen DIIV in this tour run, it would be silly not to mention the projections. A loop of “Fake News” Broadcasts, Trump interviews and the words America is Satan. Bringing us back to the reality of the political climate they have come from. After finishing their set and then returning for a three song encore it was time to wrap it up and head to bed. My first solo, task free night? A success.
Friday. I took myself for a walk down to the waterfront at Battery Point. I had to see the guy on everyone's instagram story–Quasi by Ronnie Van Hout. There's no other way to describe it other than a grumpy faced hand standing on its index and middle finger, on the roof of Henry Jones Hotel and its seriousness casts a despicable glare over the park.
The rest of the dock is lined by Mofo's controversial red crosses which cast a red light up the street at night. This red carries throughout the city, retail stores display red through their windows, red lights glow from different buildings and everywhere you go people are talking about something they've seen or about to see. Whether it is weird, exciting or shocking.
Arguably the best part of Dark Mofo is Winter Feast. As the name suggests it is a Solstice banquet that fills the PW1 warehouse of 70+ stallholders, including BBQ wallaby, squid on a stick (also known as a Squidlipop) and brush tail possum bao buns. Like most of Dark Mofo, it's an experience. I caught up with some friends, hit my first portaloo of the weekend and treated myself to some delish yet slightly rogue snacks.
We then headed back up to the Odeon for Brooklyn based group Show Me The Body. Unfortunately for all my NSW pals they were on an Australian exclusivity and I was told they were not to be missed. And they were right, I purposely went in with minimal knowledge and listened to the advice that the live show would tell me everything. After years of working in music venues I've seen a fair few hard core bands but this was a whole new experience. When I saw the orange amps and the lead singer with a banjo I knew this was going to be big. They blended genres, and can only be described as hard, fast, and loud. The energy from the crowd was huge, fully engaged with SMTB’s every move. It was a true highlight of the festival and reminded me to always go to a gig even if I didn't know of the artist. The joy of the unknown and discovering something new is so special.
The next stop is hole punch 666, a pop up bar that was formally a tattoo studio. Throughout the weekend the line seemed to never get any shorter. I skipped the line and went in with a friend who was working (is this cheating?). It was a small space with a DJ playing on the mezzanine overlooking the room. After a few drinks I felt ready to face the final stop on my list, Night Mass.
Night Mass is described by Dark Mofo as “Temple of unrest, shrine to excess, pulpit for your sins: this is the house we’ve built for you.”. Slightly ominous and in Non-Mona words it is an after dark playground. With the opening hours of 10pm - 4am chaos is encouraged. It is a multi level maze of rooms, designed to make attendees disorientated. I had been given clues and hot tips from friends who attended the weekend prior, so I was determined to see all the spots.
You enter and head up the industrial staircase. At the top is the scent of rotting fruit. We decided to follow it and it led us to find a crowd throwing tomatoes at a cook wearing latex in a 1970s kitchen…
We decided to keep leveling up the building and found another staircase, although this one tiny and out of sight, we are at the final level - an apartment building. After ducking under hanging clothes at the front door you enter into a lounge room with bands playing, people having pillow fights in bedrooms with life size bananas in pyjamas and my personal favourite–the bar which is a white fridge serving goon for $8 in the kitchen–in true house party style.
Heading back down stairs and into the street you'll find Jennifer's a queer club dedicated to Jennifer who owned the first marital aid shop in Hobart. So it only made sense that the DJ played in front of a wall of Dildos, and you could read an old playboy in the bathroom. Back into the main room there was the Cyber Rave Cave, consisting of cables and TVs hanging from the roof. The huge main room lit up with strobing lights and a children's slide with a constant stream of people piling out. Again it was an experience, but it was 3am and it was time to sleep. Thank you Dark Mofo for the memories, I think I enjoyed it?
P.S There was meant to be photos attached to this piece but I forgot my SD card and Haven't got round to developing film yet so here are blurry iphone pics that are probably better anyway
Lots of Love, Tess
Wanderers Tasmania correspondent xxxx